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Journal · Grits

What Are Grits, Really? A Sevierville Cook Explains

The first time a lot of folks from up North try grits, they make a face. They were expecting something sweet, like oatmeal, and instead they got something savory, buttery, and a little bit like the cloud that lives between mashed potatoes and polenta. We watch it happen at the table all the time here in Sevierville, that flash of confusion followed, almost always, by a slow second spoonful. Because once you understand what grits actually are and how they are meant to be cooked, you stop comparing them to anything else.

What grits actually are

Grits are ground corn. That is the whole story, and also not even close to the whole story. They are made from dent corn, a starchy field corn that has been dried and ground into coarse bits. The good stuff, stone-ground grits, keeps a little of the germ and the hull, which is why it tastes deeper and cooks up with far more corn flavor and texture than the smooth, quick-cooking kind in the box. Traditionally the corn was treated with an alkali in a process called nixtamalization, the same step behind hominy and corn tortillas, which is why you still see hominy grits on some old labels. Grits are one of the oldest foods in this part of the country, going back to the corn the Native peoples of the Southeast were grinding long before anybody thought to open a restaurant.

Why they cannot be rushed

Here is the part the box will never tell you. Grits want time. Good grits are cooked low and slow, stirred often, with far more liquid than you think you need, until the hard little grains finally surrender and turn creamy. Rush them over high heat and you get something gritty and raw in the middle, which is probably where a whole lot of grits hatred was born. Cook them gently for the better part of an hour, with water or milk or a little of both, and they go silky. Salt them early and taste them often. And do not be shy with the butter at the end. Grits are a blank canvas, and a blank canvas with no seasoning is just a bare wall.

How to actually eat them

There is no single right way, and that is the fun of it. Some folks keep them plain with butter, salt, pepper, and a handful of sharp cheese melted through. Some pile them with shrimp for the famous Lowcountry plate. Some crumble bacon or sausage over the top, or crack a fried egg and let the yolk run down into them. Up here in the mountains, a bowl of grits sitting next to eggs and a biscuit is simply what breakfast looks like. The only real mistake is treating them like dessert and dumping sugar on top, though even that, somebody's grandmother swore by, and you cannot argue with somebody's grandmother.

What gets people in the end is not the corn. It is the patience. Grits are proof that some of the best food the South ever made came from taking something plain and cheap and giving it the time and attention nobody thought it deserved. Cook a pot the slow way just once, and you will finally understand why we never reach for the instant kind.

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